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What people are saying about us...

Eagerly looking out of the bouncing taxi as we drive down the cobbles of King St, my gaze meets the emblazoned red Myristica logo against its listed stone backdrop. There is something strangely familiar about this setting that I can't quite put my finger on.

Glancing through the large front windows, I can't help but notice the reassuring smiling faces of a large party of people sat at the front of the restaurant. Pushing open the glass door, the gentle bustle of the neighbouring group minimises the immediate impersonality of this large open-plan room. The pretence of a conventional Indian restaurant, with a cosy, atmosphere and walls embellished in hologram images is immediately disrupted by the ultra- contemporary shiny surfaces and cast iron columns that prevail throughout this large room. With no wall partitions, the arrangement seems somewhat like a high school prom.

We are welcomed by a friendly waiter who shows us to our large circular dining table and presents us with our menus. Laying the ornately decorated menu down on the white tablecloth, I take another glance around. There is a large bar to one side, which again sparks a strange feeling of déjà vu. It is only when my guest points out what looks like a DJ booth that the nail is eventually hit on the head! We are sitting in the late residence of Brownstones nightclub.

We order a bottle of Merlot AltaVista £13.90, a lush, full flavoured cabernet sauvignon from Central Chile. Some oak aging adds creaminess to the dark berry fruit flavours. Great with tomato based sauces and spicy foods.

The owner, Amit makes an appearance and introduces himself with a large smile and charming character. My initial perceptions of the cold ambience are immediately warmed and I begin to appreciate our contemporary surroundings.

We start with a colourful assortment of poppadoms and rice crackers served with a range of pickles and chutneys. Although an aesthetically pleasing variation to the traditional large circular poppadom, they weren't as satisfying. The accompaniments are great though, the usual mix of lime pickle, mango chutney, mint yogurt and chopped onion, cucumber and tomato, cleanly presented and fresh tasting.

As we nibble at the poppadoms, we study the menu. Myrsitica offers a varied selection of dishes and highlights the use of fresh products that are sourced locally. The menu is modestly priced and tries to steer away from typical Anglo/Indian restaurant dishes, choosing to list them in a section politely titled 'Old Favourites & English Dishes'. The menu instead lists a variety of vegetarian, fish and meat dishes, all differing greatly from one another, providing the customer with a selection of truly Indian dishes. It is also interesting to note a special menu for young diners, who can feast on a plate of chicken tikka with either pulao rice or naan bread. (£5.95) or choose from a selection of typically- kiddie meals, including dessert and drink. (£5.95).

I settled on Mixed Bhajia's (£3.25), Mangalore prawns, (£14.95) with a shared side of stuffed bhindi (£3.50) and khumb pulao (£2.95), peshwari naan (£2.75) and for dessert, the house speciality; Shrikhand.(£3.75). My guest went for Tandoori prawns (£8.95) and pista murgh, (£7.45).

The presentation is excellent, with dishes served on large white plates - again diverging from the norm - with splashes of vibrant colours and freshly prepared, attractive garnishes. The meat, I am told is cooked to perfection and I can certainly recommend the Mangalore prawns. In fact I can recommend the whole Myristica experience.

Gone are the boogie nights in Brownstones, Myristica, a truly exceptional Indian restaurant has taken their place.

Charlotte Whitehead

Myristica, 14 King Street, Bristol. Tel: 0117 927 2277
Open Monday - Saturday for Lunch 12-2.30pm, Evening 6pm-11.30pm (last orders).


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