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Myristica

Situated on the site of shortlived bar/club Brownstone, Myristica is a huge affair. While it may lack intimacy, it is gaining fans for good updates of classic Indian dishes.

Its location opposite the Old Vic ensures a steady stream of ravenous thesps. The tandoori-baked salmon starter is substantial, succulent and perfectly seasoned. Likewise the jumbo prawns, marinated in coriander and lime juice then glazed in honey and chilli sauce. Among traditional madras and tikka masalas are some leftfield delights: kingfish with a curried sauce of limes, coconut and chillies; the rich tomato and pepper gravy of the lamb Chettinadu; or the saffron-tinged chicken Makhani.

Future plans include a theatre-style kitchen and a fresh fish counter.

John Mitchell
The Guardian
Saturday April 21, 2007